Most of the 1.4 million tourists who visit the Toronto Islands each year don't stray far from the beaten track of Centre Island and Hanlan's Point. In doing so, they miss out on a unique carless community of some 600 residents.
What a lifestyle!
While the city's skyline is changing rapidly, the walkable neighbourhoods of the Toronto Islands have changed little over the years.
I was wondering about the kindness of the residents, considering there are only 600 of them versus a multitude of over a million tourists.
Toronto Islands is technically a Toronto neighbourhood, but it has a village feel to it, where everyone knows everyone else. If you look under the Community tab on the torontoisland.org website, you'll find a link to an online group for residents, where anyone can put out a message if they need a cup of milk but don’t want to wait until their next trip to the big city. Statistics on this line show that the small community of 600 sends each other over 400 similar messages a month.
I had the chance to talk to Susan Roy, who has lived on the island for over 30 years. Since 2017, she has been offering guided walks to visitors. (She can be contacted at torontoislandwalkingtours.com). Like all the other residents, the dynamic retired teacher buys her supplies in Toronto, where she tries to visit several times a week, just to stay connected with her Toronto friends.
I was wondering about the kindness of the residents, considering there are only 600 of them versus a multitude of over a million tourists. Susan confirmed that “the majority of visitors are concentrated on Centre Island and Hanlan's Point, so we're less overrun than you might think. What's more, the locals don't forget that they live in a park!”
Fresh air and culture until October 20
Ward's and Algonquin offer a lifestyle that clearly suits an artistic mindset. Wanderers can feel that here, time is taken to live and create. Those who visit between now and October 20, 2024 will enjoy the Rogue Wave installations.
This outdoor exhibition was founded by four residents in 1998. Prior to this initiative, the art that spontaneously appeared on the island was torn down by the City staff who managed the park. Rogue Wave now takes place in partnership with the City's Parks, Recreation and Forestry department.
This year, the exhibition chose the theme Transformation. A fitting choice considering that the beloved Ward's Clubhouse, built in 1938 by members of the community, went up in flames in March 2024.
The exhibition opens with a wolf by Joseph Muscat, a well-established visual artist. “For me, the wolf is a symbol of transformation. Our dogs are descended from wolves! It's a gregarious animal, like humans.” About his choice of allowing the wolf in his sculpture his wolf to move with the wind, he said: “It makes people more present to the elements of their environment.”
Brad Harley's work (#4 on the map), not far from the Island Café, is particularly touching. It marks the site of the vanished Clubhouse, of which only the threshold has been rebuilt, and features the preserved burnt sign. In a light box awaits a nostalgic photo of the Clubhouse in better days.
It's fun to use the exhibition as an excuse to wander the neighbourhoods. The last work on the tour (a rather playful one by Taylor Ganton), takes us near an Algonquin Island boathouse.
The Toronto Island Art website lists the artists living on the Islands, including Kathleen Doody, who has been creating pebble mosaics in her studio for over 12 years. She is responsible for creating the magnificent mosaic near the clubhouse location.
This site also features an interactive map of the Tiny Galleries dotted around Ward's and Algonquin.
A bit of logistic
It's 2.2 km from Ward's ferry dock to the Centre Island lookout, where you'll find the Toronto Island Bike Rental (where you can rent 1, 2 or 4-seater bikes from noon to 5 p.m., weather permitting).
At the Ward's Island ferry exit is the licensed Island Café, rebuilt after last March's fire. A good place for coffee, croissant-sandwiches, tacos, burritos… Its gardens are a must-see!
Further on, there are public toilets, not far from Ward's beach and boardwalk.
The vast patio adjoining the boardwalk (formerly the Rectory Café, changed to Riviera) is now operated by Betty’s. (Remember the funky Irish pub Betty’s that used to be on Queen East?). It’s open from Friday to Sunday (weather permitting).
Every day, weather permitting, we can enjoy their Castaways Rum Shack on the other side of the building. (They have washrooms in that building.)
Algonquin Island is accessed via the pedestrian bridge opposite the Rum Shack. The lots are bigger on this island. The view of Toronto from the north side of it is quite spectacular. The 31 cottages were transported by barge from their previous location in Hanlan’s Point when properties were expropriated to make way for the Billy Bishop Airport.
Keep an eye on the ferries schedule to plan your return.
This post is a complement to local author Nathalie Prézeau's walking guide: Toronto BEST Urban Strolls. (currently SOLD OUT!) and Toronto Street Art Strolls (still available). You already own the BEST Urban Strolls guide? Check Nathalie's WEEKLY WALKS calendar available on her site www.torontourbangems.com/calendar. It's free, easily printable by season, and it includes page references which should help you enjoy urban walks year-round.
Visit www.torontourbangems.com to subscribe to Nathalie's coming newsletter and follow the author on social media to find out what latest urban gems she's found for you and to keep posted on her next guide.
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